Hangzhou – A Relaxing Getaway
Located in eastern part of China in the Zhejiang province, Hangzhou is the perfect place for a relaxing three day visit on a multi-city itinerary. Just an hour away from Shanghai by high-speed train, this mid-sized city (for China’s standards!) is a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Shanghai’s city life. Once the capital of China during the reign of the Wuyue Kingdom and the Southern Song Dynasty, Hangzhou’s picturesque West Lake and its surrounding hills have inspired famous artists, poets, and scholars since the 9th Century. The West Lake, comprising of temples, pavilions, pagodas, gardens, ornamental trees, causeways, and islands, is honored as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its preservation of important cultural and historical landscape.
Hangzhou also has an airport but it was really easy to get there by high-speed train from Shanghai. The train station in Hangzhou is huge and more confusing than the one in Shanghai. Do go there earlier to pick up your tickets at the “foreigner” ticket counter (bring your passports!). They have really strict 30 minute lunch breaks and all the counters will shut down at the same time so keep that in mind! Do give yourself ample time in case you get lost and/or are stuck in a long queue.
West Lake
The hotels near the main attractions of the West Lake can be really pricey, but there are good and affordable options at the quieter Maojiabu scenic lake area. It’s so much more peaceful walking around this part of the lake compared to the main areas where you’ll encounter large tour groups of tourists from other parts of China.
Besides peaceful walks on the lake and stopping at tea houses for a drink, you should hop on a boat and brave the crowds to visit the islet known as “Three Pools Mirroring the Lake.” There are several docks around the lake where you can buy a ticket for a return boat ride. The island has beautiful ponds, lush greenery and gardens, and stone structures. The three stone pagodas on the south side of the island are the symbols of Hangzhou and are printed on the back of China’s one yuan banknote. The pagodas are quite tiny though and can be seen more clearly if you take another smaller boat to get close to them.
Qinghefang Ancient Street
During the Southern Song Dynasty, Qinghefang had tea houses, shops and restaurants (much like today) and was the center of politics and culture in Hangzhou. Some stores and restaurants are centuries old and are still going strong in the area! In particular, the traditional Chinese medicine pharmacies have been treating patients with their herbal remedies for more than a century. The buildings in the ancient street are beautifully preserved and are especially striking at night when they are all lit up.
Opening Hours: Daily, 9 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Yuewang Temple
Yuewang temple (also known as the Yue Fei Temple) is situated right across the road from the Impression West Lake show (see below) and a good place to visit before the show starts. History buffs will love the interesting backstory of the temple and the man it was built for. Construction first started on the temple during the Song Dynasty in 1221 and it was built to honor General Yue Fei who led the Southern Song army against the Jurchen Jin dynasty. He was betrayed by corrupt officials who created false charges that led to his imprisonment and death sentence. Yue Fei was later exonerated and honored with a temple and mausoleum built to venerate his memory as a legendary national hero.
Opening Hours: 7:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.
Address: 80 Beishan Rd, Xihu Qu, Hangzhou Shi, Zhejiang Sheng, China, 310002
Impression West Lake: Enduring Memories of Hangzhou
Directed by award-winning film producer, writer and director, Zhang Yimou, this theatrical spectacle is staged entirely on the lake itself with the stage and other fixtures hidden a few inches below the surface of the water. During the day, it’s a regular beautiful lake, but at night, the area transforms into a massive stage with music and dance performances set amidst a dramatic light and water show. You can buy your tickets online at GOTOhangzhou. They sell out pretty quickly during high season so book them as early as you can! There is a Chinese restaurant and a fast food restaurant in the show’s vicinity but I wasn’t impressed by either one. If you can, definitely get dinner somewhere else before or after the show.
Once the show is over, there will be huge jams getting out of the area. It won’t be easy getting a taxi from there so it might be worth it to book a hotel within walking distance if money is no object. Otherwise, you might have to wait a while before getting a ride or pay more for unlicensed private drivers.
Address: 82 Beishan Rd, Xihu Qu, Hangzhou Shi, Zhejiang Sheng, China
Meijiawu Tea Village
Hop onto a taxi to get to Meijiawu Tea Village that has specialized in growing Longjing (Dragon Well) tea for more than 600 years. The village is incredibly charming with small canals, tea houses, and its surrounding fields of tea. One of the most famous tea varieties in China, Longjing tea leaves are pan roasted right after they are picked to stop the natural oxidation process which occurs with black teas. When you visit a tea house, they will serve the tender green tea leaves in individual glasses steeped with hot water. The flavor is mild and the tea is packed with vitamin C and amino acids, and has the highest concentrate of catechins (an antioxidant) amongst teas. Longjing tea is expensive but really worth the price!
We visited the village in the off season, which has its advantages and disadvantages. The streets were practically empty so we could relax in the tea house and hike up the tea fields easily. There are stairs built on the hill to take you to the very top for a gorgeous view of all the tea fields. The disadvantage is that we missed the celebratory tea picking period of March to early April. You can help farmers pick tea leaves and watch as they roast the leaves in their homes. There are 160 farmers who live right by their fields and you can see their houses as you hike up the hill. If you’re lucky and speak Chinese, one of them might pop out and talk to you about their tea.
Opening Hours: varies with different tea houses but go during the late morning to early afternoon.
Leifeng Pagoda
Leifeng Pagoda was constructed by the Emperor of Wuyue Kingdom to celebrate the pregnancy of his favorite concubine, Huangfei during the Taiping Xingguo Period (960-1127). Originally named Huangfei Pagoda, it was severely damaged during a war, renovated during the Qingyuan Period (1195-1200) of the Southern Song Dynasty, and renamed Leifeng Pagoda. The pagoda was damaged several times over the years, and the tower finally fell in 1924. The pagoda we see today was built in 2002 and the underground palace was excavated from 2000 to 2001. A great number of cultural relics were found including bronze statues of Buddha, jade figures, coins, and a gilded stupa. Visitors can view a part of the original pagoda made of ancient bricks in the two basement stories of the pagoda.
There are elevators in the building to take you to the top of the pagoda. From there, there’s a lovely view of West Lake and surrounding areas.
Opening Hours: March 16 to April: 8 a.m. – 7 p.m., May to Oct.: 8 a.m. – 8 p.m., Nov to March 15: 8 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.
Address: 15 Nanshan Rd, Xihu Qu, Hangzhou Shi, Zhejiang Sheng
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