A Deer’s Paradise in Nara
Oh deer, is city life stressing you out? If you’re visiting Osaka, do plan a half-day trip to the spiritual city of Nara where there are wild deer, gorgeous temples and shrines, and a shop selling the most delicious mochi you will ever eat!
From Osaka, you have the choice off two train lines to Nara, the JR Yamatoji Line, and the Kintetsu Nara Line. The JR line is covered by the Japan Rail Pass, while the Kintetsu Line is not. Depending on which station in Osaka you are coming from, it can range from a 34 to 50 minute journey.
On the way from the train station to Nara Park, you will pass by a stretch of shops along a narrow street. There you will find the fastest mochi pounders in the world!
Nakantanidou specializes in yomogi mochi that’s made with a Japanese wild plant that’s also known as mugwort. It gives the mochi its natural green color and slight fresh taste. Each batch of mochi is handmade and hand pounded once every half hour at the shop, drawing a crowd of curious onlookers and instant fans. The workers from the shop won the national high-speed mochitsuki championship in 2005 and 2006, and you can witness them in action at the store.
You can buy premade packets of mochi if you don’t want to line up for the fresh ones, but trust me, the fresh ones are so worth the wait! The skin is especially soft and tender, and it’s best eaten right there and then. Inside every piece is a generous filling of red bean paste, and its sweetness complements the freshness of the mugwort flavor in the mochi.
Established in 1880 and spanning approximately 1,600 acres, Nara Park is home to multiple temples and shrines, the Nara National Museum, and most importantly, 1,200 free roaming wild Sika deer. The deer in this area are considered sacred in the Shinto religion and are known as messengers of the gods. They are so revered that killing one of these deer was punishable by death until the year 1637! After World War II, the Sika deer were officially considered national treasures and protected species under law.
Japan is known for its unique café experiences where you can hang out with cats, dogs, owls, hedgehogs, among other animals. That was what it felt like visiting Nara Park, but at a whole new level. The wild deer roam free in the park and aren’t afraid of humans at all. They will pose for photos with you and even bow to you if you start bowing to them!
There are deer everywhere you turn but they are mostly (and cleverly) hanging out near vendors selling crackers specially made for them. The deer somehow know not to disturb the vendors but will go after tourists who buy these crackers instead. If you have a deer cracker in your hand, you have to be prepared for an avalanche of deer coming at you!
In 669, a family temple was built by Kagami-no-Ōkimi, the wife of Fujiwara no Kamatari from the most powerful aristocratic clan at that time, as a place to pray for her husband’s recovery from illness. The temple undergone name changes and was moved several times over the years. Eventually in 710, the temple was relocated to its present home in Nara and renamed Kofuku-ji (“the temple that generates blessings”).
The temple grounds is home to several historical buildings such as the Central Golden Hall, The Eastern Golden Hall, and Kofuku-ji’s National Treasure Museum. Featured prominently are two pagodas, one with five stories and the other with three. They were first built in 730 and rebuilt in 1426, and the five-storied pagoda is Japan’s second tallest. You can’t enter them but certainly can admire them from afar.
Once you are in Nara Park, there aren’t too many eateries in the area. Most locals who visit the park tend to bring their own picnic lunches but thankfully there are small eateries like Mizutani Chaya.
It’s an old farmhouse café that’s right next to a babbling creek surrounded by trees and roaming deer. It feels like you’ve walked right into a fairy tale! They don’t have a huge menu and their main offerings are udon soup, rice balls, tea and coffee, and lovely shaved ice desserts. It’s a relaxing place to rest your feet and fill your stomach before walking to your next destination.
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