Kanazawa, a city in the north-western Ishikawa Prefecture in the Hokuriku region of Japan, has a fascinating history featuring the elite samurai, a reverence for arts and culture, and intense wealth. The city was built by the wealthy Maeda clan who filled Kanazawa with the samurai (military nobility and warriors) and artisans and merchants to support the community. By 1700, Kanazawa rivalled Rome in size with a population of more than 100,000. Even though it was a city of the samurai, the Maeda clan directed their wealth towards arts and culture rather than military pursuits, especially in the craft of gold and lacquer. To this day, the importance of promoting and preserving local arts and culture still resonate in Kanazawa.

The name “Kanazawa” literally translates to “marsh of gold,” and it is derived from a legend of the peasant Imohori Togoro who was digging for potatoes when flakes of gold washed up. Today, Kanazawa produces 99% of gold leaf within Japan, and there are numerous artisans in the city who create everything from gold leaf cosmetics to lacquerware decorated with gold leaf. You can also buy edible gold leaves to take home or enjoy a cone of soft serve ice cream topped with edible gold flakes.

After traveling through more touristy cities like Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto, you will be struck by just how calm and peaceful Kanazawa is. It’s easily accessible by the Kanazawa Thunderbird JR Limited Express from Kyoto or Osaka (a 2 to 2.5 hour journey) or the JR Hokuriku Skinkansen from Tokyo (2.5 to 3 hour journey). If you are planning a spring vacation in Japan, note that the sakura season ends later in Kanazawa so you can catch it there if you miss it in the more crowded and touristy cities.

The best thing about Kanazawa is that all the major attractions are pretty much walking distance to one another. If you choose a hotel or ryokan close to the castle, it will be easy to walk from one spot to the other. There is a tourist bus called the Kanazawa Loop that travels every 15 minutes in both directions and cost ¥200 per ride, or you can purchase a one day bus pass for ¥500 for unlimited rides on the loop bus and regular buses. Do take note that unlike the bus system in Kyoto, the Kanazawa public bus line is more complicated to figure out. It’s easier to use the tourist loop or just walk. All the attractions are about a 10 to 20 minute walk from one another.

Ryokan

I highly recommend staying in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in Kanazawa. It may be a little more expensive than regular hotels, but it’s really worth experiencing it once in your life. There are different price points to ryokans, and in my research, the extravagantly expensive ones are in more remote mountainous areas. There are a few smaller, reasonably-priced ryokans near Kanazawa castle and Omicho market, namely Sumiyoshiya, Murataya, and Nakayasu (where I stayed). Most ryokans only have communal bathrooms but a few have ensuite rooms. The rooms are small but very clean, and you have to leave your shoes on a rack before even stepping into the lobby.

Breakfast is provided in the communal dining room but dinner is a whole other affair! The hotel workers (usually young Japanese women) will come into your room holding huge trays of food to set your table with. You will be astonished by dishes after dishes featuring incredible seafood from nearby Omicho market. It’s worth staying in a ryokan just for this extravagant dinner experience! After you are done, the young women will come back and set up your futon tatami (Japanese mattress) at the very spot you just had dinner at (it’s a tiny room!).

Omicho Market

Kanazawa’s largest fresh food market since the Edo Period (1603-1868), Omicho features gorgeous seafood and produce from the Hokuriku region. The market is also lined with several small restaurants for when you want to sit down for a more substantial meal. Size wise, it may be smaller than some of the other markets in large cities but I find the environment so much more pleasant without the hordes of tourists. If you love seafood, you will LOVE Omicho. There are large stalls selling rows and rows of fresh seafood, including those you can eat on the go like uni (sea urchin), boxes of sushi, and shucked oysters. If you are staying at a nearby ryokan, the owners will shop at Omicho to make you the most amazing dinner you will ever eat, so don’t be too sad if you’re unable to taste other seafood whilst you’re shopping.

Address: 50 Kamiomicho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture 920-0905

Opening hours: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (individual stores vary). Closed on New Year holidays.

21^st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

Located in the heart of the city, the modern circular building includes community spaces such as a library, lecture hall, and a children’s workshop, as well as numerous galleries exhibiting works from Japanese and international artists.

One of the most unusual exhibits I’ve ever seen is “Swimming Pool” by Leandro Erlich, an Argentinian artist. From above, you’d think you’re looking at an actual pool with people “swimming” in it, but in actuality, the water is only 10 cm deep on the surface with an empty space below for visitors to be “inside” the pool. It plays tricks with the mind and makes for a really fun photo session!

If you go in spring, you’ll have the added benefit of seeing gorgeous flowering trees in the green space surrounding the museum. There are also outdoor exhibits and a tearoom you can enter.

Address: 1-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa City, Ishikawa, Japan 920-8509

Opening hours for Exhibition Zone: Tuesday – Sunday, 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (until 8 p.m. on Friday & Saturday). Closed on Mondays and New Year Holidays.

Opening hours for Public Zone: Monday – Sunday, time varies for different areas, check the website for more information.  Closed on New Year Holidays.

Kanazawa Castle Park

Kanazawa Castle Park is in the center of the city and accessible from many different areas. It houses Kanazawa castle and Kenrokuen garden, one of the three best landscape gardens in Japan. The castle was the seat of the powerful Maeda clan for 14 generations from 1583 to the end of the Edo Period. The castle first burnt down in 1631 and was rebuilt with extensive changes. It burnt down again in 1759 after the great Kanazawa fire, and some of the buildings had to be rebuilt after fire damage in 1808 and 1881. The current structures we see today are a reconstruction of what the castle looked like in the 1850s. You can visit the interior of the castle to see how the structure was constructed with wooden beams and pillars, and view the surroundings from the various stone-dropping bay windows.

Address: 920-0937 Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa, Marunouchi

Opening hours: Daily, 9 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Higashi Chaya District

The Higashi Chaya District is the largest geisha district in Kanazawa, and has more tourist attractions than the two smaller districts, Nishi Chayagai and Kazue-machi. These districts were created during the Edo Period as designated entertainment zones just outside the city limits for wealthy clients. A chaya (teahouse) is an exclusive restaurant where guests are entertained by geishas who perform traditional song and dance, and play drinking games. There are two chaya, Shima Teahouse and Kaikaro Teahouse open to the public during the day. Shima Teahouse is now a museum that showcases old instruments, accessories worn by the geishas, and tea ceremony utensils. Kaikaro is a working teahouse at night that entertains clients on a referral basis only, but they do have special performances open to the public.

There are shops and cafes along the central pedestrian street and one in particular, Hakuza, is especially interesting because it sells gold leaf products and has a special tea ceremony room that’s completely covered in gold leaf! Speaking of gold leaf, there are several shops selling gold leaf or gold flaked ice cream in the Higashi Chaya District. The gold doesn’t change the taste of the ice cream but it makes for a fun photo!

Kazue-machi Chaya District

Kazue-machi Chaya District is an old geisha district located along the river between Asanogawa Ohashi Bridge and Naka-no Hashi Bridge. It’s not as touristy as the Higashi Chaya District so you won’t see many shops and cafes in the area. It’s just a very pretty and quiet walk alongside the river.

This article has been converted into a GPSmyCity travel app! Click on this link to download it for free and subscribe for even more articles and offline walking directions.