Travel Back in Time to Ancient Kyoto

When “Memoirs of a Geisha” was first published, readers, including me, were enchanted by the intricate descriptions of a bygone era in Kyoto. Today, the city has retained its ancient charm in the historical Gion district whilst boasting modern conveniences for locals and travelers alike. Most attractions are walking distance to one another, and the public transportation is convenient and easy to figure out. For a more detailed article about Kyoto’s transportation options, click on my story on Navigating Kyoto. I’ve compiled a list of sites you can visit in a day to become fully enveloped in Kyoto’s charm. These places encompass the serenity, magic and splendor of the ancient city.

Hanami-koji Geisha District

When you step into Hanami-koji, you will feel like you’ve been transported back in time. The streets are lined with beautifully preserved machiya houses (traditional wooden townhouses) that are now operating as restaurants serving Japanese haute cuisine. Hanami-koji is also where geiko (referring to a geisha in Kyoto) and maiko (apprentice geiko) live so you could possibly catch them running to their appointments. Tourists can sometimes be quite aggressive paparazzi when they see a geiko or maiko in person so there are signs everywhere reminding us not to touch the women!

Hanami-koji gets very lively in the evening when all the restaurants and teahouses are open. If you want to interact with a geiko, you may book an evening of traditional Japanese arts entertainment with them in a teahouse. The experience can be rather expensive though! Instead of jostling with the crowds, you may consider going for a walk early in the morning. The streets will be quiet and peaceful, and you can really appreciate the beauty of the architecture. If you’re lucky like me, you will see a geiko late for her appointment, running impressively fast down the road in her wooden clogs!

Spot the geiko!

Address: Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Prefecture

Closest Station: Gion-Shijo Station

Kennin-ji Temple

Founded in 1202 by the priest Yousai (1141-1215), Kennin-ji is the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. The temple grounds is located in a park with smaller shrines scattered throughout. It’s the perfect place to go to for a peaceful morning stroll. The main temple building is located closer to the entrance and when you enter it, you will have to take your shoes off to protect the structure. I was struck by the large size of the interior. There were multiple rooms featuring gorgeous works of art painted on sliding doors, and Zen gardens with beautifully manicured trees and perfectly racked sand.

Address: Komatsu-cho, Yamatooji-dori, Shijo sagaru, Higashiyama-ku

Closest Station: Gion-Shijo Station

Opening Hours: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m., last entry 4:30 p.m. (March – Oct), 10 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., last entry 4 p.m. (Nov – Feb). Closed Dec 28 – 31

Admission: ¥500

Shoden Eigen-in

Shoden Eigen-in Zen Temple is much smaller than Kennin-ji but is also just as beautiful. The temple is famous for its lush gardens featuring autumn leaves in October and November, and azaleas in late spring and early summer. One interesting feature is the replica of the Jo-an teahouse situated in the garden. You can peak through the windows to see what it looks like inside.

Jo-an Teahouse

Address: 586 Komatsu-cho, Higashiyama-ku

Closest Station: Gion-Shijo Station

Opening Hours: 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Admission: ¥600

Nishiki Market

If you love food, you will absolutely love Nishiki Market! Head there for lunch after you’ve exhausted yourself visiting the various sites in Gion. Known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” Nishiki Market has more than a hundred shops and restaurants, with many of them specializing in one particular type of food (like pickled vegetables, seafood, or miso) or cookware (check out the knives!). Nishiki Market started off as a wholesale fish market with its first retail store opening in 1310. It’s no wonder that many of these family-owned stores have been there for generations!

Creative mochi!

You may eat at the cafes and restaurants in the market, but I found it to be more fun to try various food on the go. I especially loved the grilled fishcake on a stick, and it was the best fishcake I’ve ever eaten! The stall is directly across a store selling freshly roasted chestnuts and black bean tea.

Grilled fishcake

If you love sashimi, there’s one particular seafood stall that is really popular with locals and tourists alike. You can’t miss it; they sell marinated sashimi on a stick that’s meaty, fresh and delicious. For a truly unique dessert, walk down to the next block and you will find deliciously light ice cream made of soy milk. The vanilla/matcha double swirl is especially tasty!

Marinated tuna and salmon
Matcha and vanilla soy ice cream!

Address: Nishikikoji-dori, Nakagyo-ku

Closest Station: Shijo Station

Opening Hours: 9:30 a.m. – 6 p.m., daily (some stores are closed on Wednesdays)

Admission: Free

Fushimi Inari Shrine

This famous Shinto shrine is synonymous with Kyoto with its distinctive red gates appearing in practically every travel photo of the city. Thousands of these red torii gates lead up to Mount Inari through the wooded forest behind the shrine’s buildings, creating a stunning pathway for contemplative walks. Fushimi Inari Shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, and the multiple fox statues across the shrine grounds symbolize Inari’s messengers.

The shrine is open 24/7 so you can head there at dawn for a peaceful and quiet walk up to the top of the mountain, sans fellow tourists. Most people visit the shrine in the late afternoon to early evening, and walk up the mountain to catch the sunset. If you are planning to do that, give yourself about an hour if you’re a fast walker, and longer if you’re planning for a leisurely stroll.

Address: 68 Yabunouchi-cho, Fukakusa Fushimi-ku, Kyoto

Closest Station: JR Inari Station

Opening Hours: 24 hours, 7 days a week

Admission: Free

Togaden

After a full day of walking, you will be starving and tired! Head to Togaden, a vegetarian restaurant specializing in tofu, for a reasonably priced and incredibly delicious meal. They have a variety of set meals that have all sorts of tofu creations in every texture, even in a sweet mochi dessert!

The first floor of the restaurant is a store selling their house-made products such as soy milk, tofu cheesecake, tofu donuts and yuba (soy milk skin), whilst the dining room is on the second floor of the building. The restaurant doesn’t take phone reservations. Instead, you will have to write your name down on a piece of paper when you enter the store, and wait for your name to be called. Because of its popularity with locals and tourists alike, there is always a line at Togaden during lunch and dinner hours. But not to worry, the wait is never that long. It was one of the best meals I’ve ever had and I will travel to Kyoto just to eat there again!

Address: 87 Nakajimacho, Sanjo Kawaramachi-dori Higashi-iru, Nakagyo-ku

Closest Station: Sanjo Keihan Station

Opening Hours: 11 a.m. – 8:30 p.m., daily except New Year’s Day

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSMyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.



2 thoughts on “Travel Back in Time to Ancient Kyoto”

    • I ate there in late April this year and it was packed with customers. I see that their website has shut down so I’m not sure. I hope they’re still in business, their food was excellent! If I’m able to find out more info, I’ll leave a message here for you.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *